|
|
|
This is the '03 V-Strom I just traded for my '01 CBR600F4i It'll be on eBay this week if it's still around. eBay auction starts Sunday July, 18th @ 1:15pm PST I just picked up my '02 Suzuki DL-1000 V-Strom. Stupid name, cool bike. More to follow. Sleeping in the garage. After a nice snowy winter ride. OK I set out to install my Power Plate Power Distribution Block and Master Ground Block from The Electrical Connection. I took this picture so if I screwed up I could see where everything went back. That connection is my Battery Tender/Widder connection. I took a few snap shots while I was drilling some access holes in the tool tray. Here's the ground block. I drilled the holes for the ground block. That's what it would have looked like it I were to leave it there. But I moved it to the right hand side of the tool tray. I ended up tapping power off of the orange/white wire going into the relay in front of the tool tray on the right side of the bike. This is where I left everything. I made an adapter that turns the Widder end off of my vest into the same as a Battery Tender and I used to run them off of the same connection to my battery but since I never needed them at the same time. With this set up I can't do it. The Power Plate is set up so the battery charger lead shuts off as soon as the key is turned on so that the bike isn't damaged. So if I ran my vest to the same plug like I used to, it would only heat my vest while the key was off. Not very comfy on those cold nights. So now I have my Battery Tender plug wired hot while the key is off and gets killed as soon as the key comes on. And I have a standard Widder connector wired in and that only has power when the key is on. Next will be a Power Plugs so that I can run my Garmin eTrex Vista GPS, cell phone charger, Delphi XM radio, and MP3 player (Pic one, I have 5 and I'm still working on the MP3 player test.) I know it's vague but if you need the instructions or anything just drop me a line. Catfish "at" CatfishRacing "dot" com I finally got a few free minutes to look into tuning the fuel injection on the V with my new Factory Pro TEKE SFI box. It really is as easy as they say. I had to take off the rear rack so I could take off the left rear side panel where the plug was hidden. Here are some pics to get an idea of where it is. I put the box on and just dialed in the settings that Marc from Factory Pro had given me. Voila' The bike ran better and smoother. The chudder that was present under acceleration up to 4,000 RPM's is now a tiny flat spot at 3,200 RPM's. After I was done with that I threw on my new Two Brothers C2 oval stainless pipes. HOLY LOUD!!! If you don't want to offend people, don't buy these pipes! I richened up my mixture a little and I'll play with it over the next week. I cut the tape off of the wiring harness and retaped it so I could get to the plug without taking the bike apart now. Just pop off the seat, plug in the TEKA, and start adjusting. Then I played around mounting my crash bars from Peter Kroll No bid deal really. I gotta ask a couple of question about the spacers. I also added power to my K-Drive tankbag that I got from Erik at Twisted Throttle. I got the kit from Jastek I'll keep y'all posted. Here are some pics with my Hepco & Becker Gobi's mounted.
This page was last updated on: 06/21/2006 |